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Mushrooms by Jeremy Kelso on Mar 30, 2011 | Posted in: Food, Recipes

Mushrooms are a fungus that exists in thousands of varieties. Cultivated mushrooms commonly available today include the familiar white mushroom and as varieties such as the portabella, cremini, shiitake, and oyster mushrooms. Wild mushrooms, prized for their concentrated earthy flavor, include the cepe (porcini), chanterelle, Morel, and the truffle. Knowing your purveyor is important when using wild mushrooms as many varieties are poisonous. Varieties of mushrooms are available canned, frozen, and dried. Select mushrooms that are firm, without blemishes or breaks. If you are using varieties such as the white or the cremini, the caps should be tightly closed (opened gills are a sign of age). When selecting portabella, it is desirable to select one with the gills open. Mushrooms that are to be cooked whole should be of equal size so that they will cook evenly. Mushrooms should be stored in the refrigerator in a single layer, covered with a damp paper towel. When you want to use them, wipe the mushroom with a damp paper towel or very quickly rinse them in cold water and drain immediately. Mushrooms should never be submerged in water as they absorb it like a sponge and will become mushy.

As any mushrooms lover knows, mushrooms are fragile and hard to keep. It only takes a few days for mushrooms to darken and their taste and texture to denature. At 52 degrees, in 90% relative humidity, mushrooms remain fresh for three to five days.

By regulating the concentration of carbon dioxide and oxygen that the mushrooms are exposed to, you can help to retain the freshness. At a concentration of carbon dioxide between 2.5% and 5% and oxygen concentrations between 5% and 10% conditions are optimal to retain the mushrooms freshness.

White mushrooms are white to buff colored with a round cap ranging from ½ to 3 inches in diameter. Button refers to the smallest of this variety. They are used raw or cooked. They can be marinated in sauces, soups, or stews and stuffed.
Porcini (cepe) mushrooms are pale brown ranges with caps ranging from 1 to 10 inches in diameter. They have a smooth, meaty texture and a pungent flavor. They are available dried. They are used raw or cooked. They are used raw or cooked. They can be marinated in sauces, soups, or stews.
Chanterelle are golden to apricot colored, trumpet shaped mushrooms. They have a chewy texture and nutty flavor. They are used raw or cooked. They can be marinated in sauces, soups, or stews.
Cremini mushrooms are dark brown with caps that range from ½ to 2 inches in diameter. They have a firm texture. They are used raw or cooked and in sauces.
Enoki are white to buff colored long slender, stalk like mushrooms. They have a crunchy texture and a mild, fruity flavor. They are used raw or cooked in salads and soups and used as garnish.
Lobster mushrooms have a deep red, molted color. They can be sautéed or used in sauces.
Morel mushrooms are tan to very dark brown and range from 2 to 4 inches in height. They have a cone-shaped hollow cap. They have a firm but spongy texture and earthy flavor. They are available dried. They can be sautéed or used in sauces and salads.
Portabella mushrooms are dark brown with open flat caps that range from 3 to 6 inches in diameter. They have a dense meaty texture and are strongly flavored. They can be sautéed, grilled, stuffed, or used in sandwiches or on salads.
Oyster mushrooms are creamy to silver gray and can be found in clusters of fan-shaped mushrooms. They have a delicate texture and a peppery flavor when raw. Cooking them mellows the peppery flavor. As a result, they are usually sautéed.
Shiitake mushrooms are tan to brown with caps that range from 3 to 6 inches in diameter. They have a meaty texture and earthy flavor. They are available dried. They can be sautéed, broiled, grilled, steamed, and used in stocks.
Truffles are black or white irregularly shaped, wrinkled mushrooms. They have a perfume like fragrance and an earthy, garlic like flavor. They are available canned, frozen, and as flavored oil. They can be served raw over pasta or used to flavor sauces or risottos.
Matsutaki are dark brown mushrooms with a dense, meaty texture and a nutty, fragrant flavor. They can be braised, grilled, steamed, or fried.
Maitake (Hen-of-the-woods) are grayish brown mushrooms with clustered, overlapping fan-shaped caps. They have white steams, a chewy texture, and a deep flavor. They can be sautéed are used as a dietary supplement.

Mushrooms bring texture and flavor to every dish. They can be used to add an earthiness to the dish or even used as a sponge to soak up a particular flavor only to release it on every bite. One of my favorite ways to enjoy the flavor “soaking” properties of the mushrooms is with a good Marsala.

Chicken, Veal, or Turkey Marsala

Ingredients:

  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon your favorite seasoning mix
  • 2 (6 to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken or turkey breasts, or veal cutlets, cut in halves and pounded thin
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 3 cups sliced mushrooms (I recommend cremini, oyster, and shiitake)
  • 3/4 cup Marsala
  • 1 cup chicken stock
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Chopped chives, for garnish

Directions:

  1. In a shallow bowl or plate combine the flour and seasoning mix and stir to combine thoroughly.
  2. Quickly dredge the meat  in the seasoned flour mixture, shaking to remove any excess flour.
  3. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking.
  4. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter and cook the meat until golden brown on both sides, about 3 minutes per side.
  5. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
  6. Add 1 tablespoon of the remaining butter to the pan and add the mushrooms.
  7. Cook, stirring frequently, until mushrooms are golden brown around the edges and have given off their liquid (about 7 minutes).
  8. Add the Marsala wine and bring to a boil, scraping to remove any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
  9. When the wine has reduced by half (about 5 minutes), add the chicken stock and cook for 3 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened slightly.
  10. Lower the heat to medium and return the meat to the pan and continue to cook until they are cooked through and the sauce has thickened, about 5 to 6 minutes.
  11. Swirl in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, add salt and pepper, to taste.
  12. Garnish with chopped chives and serve immediately.
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